Thursday, 17 January 2013

Tikaykilla and the Coquimbito, Mendoza wineries

As our first stop in Argentina we settled on Mendoza, set with the spectacular backdrop of the Andes and laced with vineyards.

This is the expensive passage of our trip and accommodation in the vineyards around the city is exclusive and not cheap. We did manage to find one place in Coquimbito which was cheaper than the rest despite boasting excellent reviews on trip advisor, this was called Tikaykilla (http://www.tikaykilla.com.ar/en/index.htm). It is well located, a short taxi or bus from central Mendoza and gives you an excellent starting point if you want to explore some of Mendoza's vineyards. It also has Francesco, the owner, whose knowledge of the area and the wines as well as his happy to please attitude certainly contributed to our enjoyment of our stay in the region.

The local region around the lodge is becoming more and more geared up (excuse the pun) for cycling tours with parts of the main street boasting cycle lanes (with more being built) the police also keep a close we on the traffic so while you are cycling, even on the main roads after a vino or two, you never feel in too much danger, as, certainly towards the end of the day the drivers assume you are drunk and give you plenty of room.

The terrain is also almost completely flat so riding around is not too much of a problem even for the less physically fit of us (Although when the temperature is over 35 it does seem like hard work).

You should also note that the maps which are given out with the bike are not to scale (which we found when we tried to walk one day) and gaps between place (and the distances on signs) frequently say the same distance to your destination for kilometre after kilometre!

Bike hire was 35 pesos (5 pounds) a day and included several discounts for vineyards and restaurants as well as a (not very) stylish helmet.

As with Chile you are expected to pay to taste the produce but this is usually only 30 or 40 pesos (4 to 6 pounds) for 3 or 4 glasses of wine.

There are around 10 vineyards in the area who have tasting and tours, I will cover a few in my next couple of blogs (along with some of my favourite wines). There are also several olive oil producers (you can do a tasting there too) and a boutique brewery called 'beer garden' whose larger style beer I would definitely recommend on a hot day.

Finally it wouldn't be a food blog without mentioning the local cuisine. We had a couple of excellent meals from "casa de campo" which is a family run place near the accommodation who have a lunchtime restaurant where they serve excellent veal (pictured) and an evening restaurant where they do steak (of course) and an Argentine barbecue (meat selection or "death by meat" as it quickly became during the 5 courses of pork and beef). We also had a great beef sandwich overlooking the lake in the main park in Mendoza.

It was not all awesomeness though as my fiancée had what she described as "the worst pastas she'd ever tasted" from one roadside restaurant during our cycling tour from a restaurant which shall remain nameless.

I would definitely recommend a week or two in the area if you are fond of red wine and steak.







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